They aren't all that easy to dig out ~whole~ (the
singular primary roots can be up to 8"+ deep within
the first full growing season after germination). You'll want to look for seedlings that are 6" -
8" tall with 1-2 sets of leaves.
When to Salvage:
November through early December is the best time of
the year to dig since they are mostly dormant).
Tools and How to Use Them:
Trowels are the tool for this effort, although some
people may have preference for a bigger narrow and
blunt-nosed shovel.
Most important is to dig straight down at least
4-6 inches away from the stem! Of your seedling!
Soil with lots of cobbles may require hand digging
to allow you to release the root system intact (less
than 1/2 of it will likely kill the seedling).
Make sure that you are wearing gloves or have
handy-wipes and maybe even some hand-warmers
available, given the chilly weather. Something to
kneel/sit on (like flattened pop box/flats or carpet
foam strips on trash
bags) will help as well since the ground is
chilly and you won't likely want to get wet or cold.
You'd also want to have some plastic pots into which
you would place the seedlings that are removed.
1-gallon pots would be the minimum size.
Use Local Soil:
You'll want to add local soil to the potted
seedlings (allowing gravel up to 1" in size) from
where the seedlings are dug. This is important
because there are bacteria, plus fungal growth in
this particular soil with which the oaks are
associating, and which will aid the seedlings as
they work to survive the shock of being dug, held
and transplanted at a later date.
Holding:
You can hold Garry oak seedlings for quite a number
of years just so long as you give their roots
adequate rooting area over time, (which can mean
enlarging the pot on a regular basis to keep the
developing tree from becoming root/pot bound). Wide
pots are as important as pots that give adequate
depth, preferably something like a 1:1.25+/- ratio,
respectively.
Long Term Holding:
Other care features to keep in mind if you pursue
the salvaging AND holding of any seedling or plants
include temporary placement (some shade is good, but
not deep shade) and adequate watering - it's a must.
If a water spigot, sufficient length of hose, and
one or more people are not All available once a week
throughout the ENTIRE length of summer, find someone
who is willing to offer these necessities to hold
and care for your plants (the Salvage program
serving your county may be interested).
Water:
It's' also a good idea to know who's paying the
water bill and to obtain permission to add to their
bill. Keep in mind that one of the reasons you'll
want to consider keeping your water-us to a minimum
is that rainfall in this portion of the country in
sporadic to non-existent in the summer months.
Global -warming trends may make that seem like an
understatement.
Ultimately wild salmon and other wildlife will
benefit from less use
(withdrawal) of water from their spawning
habitats at the very time of the year when it's
critical for both plants and fish to get adequate
amounts of water for their survival.
Access to Salvageable Plants:
Similar to asking permission to use/apply water,
it's important to verify that the land from which
you salvage your plants and seedlings is not only
open for salvaging, but will not be damaged by
removal of plants that may be necessary for the long
term of regeneration there. Site slated for
development are the most promising, if they also
support the plants you seek to salvage.
Weeds:
Beware of sites that have already been infiltrated
with weeds. It's easy to bring those with you if you
dig indiscriminately. Weeding is not only hard work
but incites the use of chemicals - avoid it if you
can.
Most Important of All - Have FUN! Invite your
community to join you in the investment of creating
neighborhood plantings that maintain your sense of
place, use fewer chemicals, less water, and minimal
manual resources in the long term, while attracting
Nature to continue occupying the place it has
evolved to call "home."
