Finding appropriate
plants: Focusing on species that are
easily-salvaged, look for a plant that is growing by itself;
trees and shrubs growing in clumps connected by underground
runners are unlikely to survive transplanting.
With few exceptions,
trees and shrubs are most likely to survive if they are under
three feet tall.
Preparing the plant:
Check to makes sure the plant looks healthy. If it does, clear
the area around it of leaves and twigs (wear gloves). If some of
its branches are too long for transporting, they can be pruned
back.
Digging the plant:
At least eight inches out from the plant's main stem (one foot
if the plant is over three feet tall), plunge the spade straight
down into the ground as deep as possible. Continue doing this
until you've circled all the way around the plant. Now gently
work the spade under the plant's roots. If you encounter a root
that the spade will not cut in two strokes, cut it with clippers
to prevent damaging the root. Cut the root as long as possible
Moving smaller plants:
Plants under two feet tall can simply be lifted out of the hole
(supporting the roots and attached dirt with your hand), placed
in a wet burlap bag, and the roots covered with wet leaves or
mulch.
Keep the soil with the plant.
Plants that are salvaged with the root ball and soil intact
stand an increased chance of survival. The soil also provides
important micro-organisms that will innoculate the site where you
locate your salvaged plants.
Moving larger trees and shrubs:
Root balls (roots plus the surrounding dirt) should be wrapped
with burlap and tied into the root ball. This will protect the
roots from drying out and ensure that you take with you
microorganisms the plant needs to flourish. Two people are
usually needed for this procedure, especially for trees and
shrubs over three feet tall.
Place a piece of burlap about two
or three feet square alongside the plant. Once the root mass has been cut
loose, place the spade under the plant. While one person holds
the spade handle, the other person (who is wearing gloves)
should grasp the main stem of the plant and, using the blade to
support the root ball, lift the blade and the plant out of the
hole. BE SURE TO LIFT WITH YOUR LEGS, NOT WITH YOUR BACK!
Transfer the root ball onto the burlap. Pull the corners and
edges of the burlap up to enclose the root ball, and wrap twine
around the root ball and burlap to keep it together. If you
happen to lose most of the dirt around the roots, moisten
the burlap, and pack wet leaves around the roots. Roots
will dry out and die in seconds if exposed to the air, so make
sure they stay wet! Roots can be kept moist with a spray bottle,
if necessary.
Storing plants:
If you need to store plants before you plant them, you might
want to build a "capillary bed." This is a wooden frame about
one foot deep and usually four feet wide by 8-10 feet long. (You
can make it smaller, as long as it is still about one foot
deep.) Place the frame on level ground and line it with heavy
plastic ( >3 mil). Half-fill it with soil or mulch, and then
saturate the soil or mulch with water. Punch holes through the
plastic in the corners, halfway up the sides of the bed (level
with the layer of soil or mulch), to prevent the entire bed from
filling with water.
If possible, pot the plants
before placing them in the bed, as this will lessen the number
of times the roots have to be disturbed. Then place the plants
in the bed on the saturated layer, surround and cover the pots
with soil or mulch, and spray the mulch with water. Capillary
action will provide the plants with sufficient water so long as
there is water in the bed's reservoir. Watch the water level,
especially during the summer and dry periods, to make sure plant
roots are staying moist, but not so wet that they are constantly
saturated and suffocating. Plants stored in a capillary bed can
survive for up to a year or more with very little maintenance.
