|
Washington State University
Gardening in Western Washington -
Native Plants
(Identifying, Propagating & Landscape)
|
| To create a landscape
that looks natural, avoid planting in rows and avoid spacing the plants
evenly. Instead, place the plants randomly to emulate growth
patterns found in nature. If you are planting several
species and have multiple plants of each, clump each species
together in groups of two or three. Spacing between plants should
take into account how large they are going to grow and what you
want the site to look like when the plants are mature. While spacing
varies from species to species, generally trees should be at least
10-12 feet apart, and small shrubs at least three feet apart. Be
sure to locate each plant so that it gets enough sun or shade as
necessary.
Plant in the early morning or late
afternoon to avoid intense sunlight and heat, which can dry out
the roots and kill the plant. Remember to keep the roots moist at
all times!
|
How to Plant -
Step by Step |
- Dig a hole twice as wide and
only as deep as the plant's roots. If the soil
is clay, roughen the sides of the hole with the edge of your
shovel or spade (this will eliminate slick sides, which act
as barriers to water and roots).
- Putting the plant in
the hole:
-
If the roots are
in a burlap ball or
encased in soil– untie the burlap and peel it
back so the soil is exposed; carefully lift the
root ball out of the burlap, place it in the
hole, and arrange any exposed roots so they
point outward.
- If the plant is
in a container–
carefully remove the plant from the container.
Curving roots should be straightened out, and
encircling roots should be cut off where they
begin to circle (otherwise they will encircle
and eventually kill the plant).
- If the
roots are bare,
with no surrounding soil– build an upside-down
cone in the middle of the hole. Hold the plant
in the hole, over the cone, and arrange the
roots around the cone so that none of the roots
are curled or bent. If a root can't be uncurled
or unbent, trench to accommodate the root.
- Fill the remainder
of the hole with soil, then press the soil down
firmly with your hands or feet (don't stomp) to
close up any air holes. Put enough soil back in the
hole so that the plant will be buried just as deeply
as it was before being disturbed.
- If you are concerned
about the plant not getting enough moisture (for
example, if it's on a steep slope, or watering will
be infrequent), encircle the filled-in hole with a
lip of soil to create a dish.
- Cover the bare
ground around the plant with 2" of mulch. This will
help retain moisture, reduce surface erosion,
moderate the temperature around the roots,
discourage weeds, and if an organic mulch is used,
add nutrients. Composted leaves or wood chips
work best, but you can use any weed-free organic
matter, or even rocks or (as a last resort). Fine
sawdust is not a good choice, as it tends to form a
water-repellent mat. Do not use cedar, anything with
weed seeds (e.g., hay), or sawdust from painted or
treated wood. Do not pile mulch around the stem
itself.
- Stake the plant only
if it is so big and the root ball so small that the
wind might blow it over. The plant should still be
loose enough for it to sway a little (½ - 1 inch) in
the wind, and should not remain staked for longer
than one year.
Do not use wire
for staking as this can damage the plant. Instead, use any
strap-like device that spreads the weight of the strap over a
large area.
|
|
| |
|
Credit:
Leigh, Michael. Grow Your Own Native Landscape.
Revised Edition, June 1999. |
|
|
